Rio Gallegos, Argentina


Jan 5, 2005

I was supposed to leave Ushuaia yesterday, but it was raining heavily and I wasn´t able to do any filming, so I decided to leave early this morning. I spent the night at Javier´s Place, a bed and breakfast owned by a motorcycle riding lawyer who flagged me down the day before when I was riding by, then helped me clean out my air filter. Everyone with an extra room in Ushuaia has a B&B or hostel. Javier let me take him to a chinese and parilla all you can eat buffet in exchange for a room with a full size bed, real hot water (until you´ve tried the hot water, you don´t know what this means), and a working heater.

This morning I set out bright and early, the sun was out, and around Ushuaia the mountains were full of mist, then I hit the rain. At least the dirt roads werén´t full of choking dust. Later down the road I got to decide whether I prefer riding in choking dust or hailstorms.

The sky is so blue and the clouds so thick and intense, roiling almost across the sky, that even freezing bitter rainstorms are beautiful here.

I checked the weather channel yesterday and they are predicting 10 days of rain, followed by locusts and frogs...

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